Wednesday, December 22, 2010

.. -.. .. --- -

Driving in Hanoi.

If I had to use one word to summarize the attitude of almost all drivers in Hanoi, it would be "opportunistic." If there is an opportunity for them to get ahead by one centimeter, they will force their way into it. It's sad, because I think it points to a deeper social problem that goes far beyond just driving. Even pulling into the gas station provides an object lesson of this issue. The moment someone pulls out from having their tank filled everyone will try to push into the gap left behind. There is no concept of queueing or respecting that the person there before you has been waiting longer. There is an opportunity so you have to try and take it. This is not limited to young men who are often aggressive in any culture, almost everyone does this. If they don't, they'll never get any fuel!

There is an intersection near where I live that I must pass through on a daily basis. Invariably, if the traffic light is not on (since they seem to be turned off randomly for no apparent reason) there will be a horrible snarl of traffic congested in the center of the intersection. It will be a combination of cars, trucks, construction vehicles, buses, and of course, motorbikes. Since no one is willing to yield unless a police officer is in evidence ordering them to do so, they will just sit there honking at one another and inching forward bit by bit until they've all managed to squeak their way through. Driving your bike through it is not a good way to start your day with a positive attitude.

In regards to the honking, that is another amazing phenomenon in Vietnam. Westerners tend to view honking as something out of the ordinary, a warning of danger or something unexpected. Here it is a constant barrage. Sometimes it is legitimate, particularly when you're passing someone and you want them to know you are coming up behind them. Since there is no concept of "lanes" (even though they are painted on the road), everyone feels the need to warn when they are coming up behind anyone, even from the other side of the road. If the road is too congested, drivers will just pull up onto the sidewalk. However, after several months of experience and observation it has become clear that the three main reasons for honking are as follows: 1) Watch out, I'm about to do something really stupid! 2) Get out of my way, I'm doing something stupid! and 3) Look out, I'm stupid! (The third group scare me the most, stay far away from them!)

I think the most dangerous would have to the be construction vehicles traveling at the fastest speed they can manage on the Hanoi streets blasting their deafening air horns that should never be used outside of a construction site. When one of them pulls up behind you and blasts its horn you had better hope you don't jump out of your seat. You will die. It has happened. That is another type of vehicle that I stay as far away from as possible. Of course, buses in Hanoi aren't much better. The drivers are always rushing to stay on schedule and whip the giant buses around like they're Mini Coopers. I've watched them blast their horn at someone in their way and actually nudge the bus forward until they bump the person's bike (or the person!) I once heard someone describe the buses as the killer whales of Hanoi, I think they're right.

In conclusion, I believe that I will begin honking my own horn in a morse code pattern of
".. -.. .. --- -". Anyone that knows me very well already knows what that will translate into.

;-)